This anti aging soap brings nourishment to the skin, with anti aging rose essential oil, coconut oil, grapeseed and more. This is a luxurious facial soap that is a great gift for the "older" women in your life!
Lye & Liquids Amount
Lye (sodium Hydroxide)
Ounces of liquid
Oils & Fats Amount %
Coconut Oil (Virgin)
Lye & Liquid
Oils & Fats
TOTAL BATCH YEILD
Essential Oil Amount
Rose Absolute Essential Oil
This soap has a butterfat content of 5%
This soap recipe assumes you have made soap before and aren't new to the terminology typically found in soaping circles.
There are 6 steps in the process of making this soap, follow the directions carefully, wear proper gear; glasses, thick rubber gloves etc.
REMINDER: Use only vessels that you do not intend to use for for future food consumption. I bought mine at a second hand store. Do not use aluminum pots, or wood spoons as the lye will eat away at these materials, it's best to use stainless steel bowls, plastic spoons and spatulas. DO NOT add your water to your lye, add the lye to the water or other liquid you are using. (for a more basic introduction to soap making see our beginner soap making article.
STEP ONE: Gather your ingredients and tools. Done your gear, remove the children and pets. Measure out your lye and then water amounts. Very slowly, carefully add the lye to the water stir until the water turns clear again and set aside.
STEP TWO: Melt (if necessary) measure and combine your fixed oils, warm to about 140-150°, allow to cool ideally to below 130°.
STEP THREE: Once the oils and lye have both cooled to below 130°degrees (try to have both the oils and the lye to within 10° of each other), carefully pour the lye water into the fixed oils. Pouring down the shaft of your immersion blender avoids air bubbles.
STEP FOUR: Begin by tapping the blender on the bottom of the bowl releasing air bubbles. Pulse the stick blender to mix the oils and the lye, then hold at a continuous blend until the soap reaches trace. Keep the blender complete submerged in the soap before turning on to prevent splatter.
STEP FIVE: Once the soap has reached trace HAND stir your scent oils, if adding any coloring you would do this at trace BEFORE adding your scent oils. Pour your soap into your mold(s) then rap your soap onto the counter to remove any remaining air bubbles, you can do this a couple of times.
STEP SIX: Wrap your soap with a towel to insulate it for 24-48 hours. You can then unmold your soap and cut into the desired bars (if using silicone molds add a couple of extra days before unmolding as the soap will tend to stick more to the mold) If adding any organic matter you can at this point, be sure to press slightly into your soap so it doesn't fall off. Now cure your soap for 4-6 weeks. I check my soap at 2 weeks and turn accordingly, this is optional.
A great way to test if your soap is done is to stick the tip of your tongue on the edge of a bar of soap, if you get a little zing it's not ready.
NOTES: It's best not to alter this soap recipe, if you want to experiment with different oils, or just use what you have on hand I would suggest using a soap calculator to this. Believe it or not essential oils are not interchangeable, if you want to add a different scent I would suggest using a soap calculator to do so. You can infuse your oils with any herb that you want. Just place your oil and plant material in a crock pot, and place on low strain out the organic material and then use the oil as you would usually. You can also do this on the stovetop, but keep an eye on it so it doesn't burn or boil, if it does you will lose all of your volatile oils. Another option is to add your organic material to your oil and place in a sunny location for a couple of weeks. Again you would just strain out the organic material and use as usual.